A Jew visits Kurdistan

From Paul Rockower at HuffPo:

With just a bit of trepidation, I set off in early June last year for Iraq. I was to be there for five weeks, running performing arts academies in the Kurdistan region of Iraq. I was working as the Communications Director for American Voices, a nonprofit organization that conducts cultural diplomacy to countries emerging from conflict or isolation.....

In terms of religiosity, Kurdistan felt laid back. Islam was part of the social fabric and culture, but did not seem to dominate daily life. I met many Kurds who were quite secular. Like Israel (at times), religion felt to be part of the broader culture but not in an overbearing fashion. I happened to be there as Ramadan started, and there were still some restaurants open although they covered their entrance-ways in concealing cloth. Also to note, it was quite easy to find a liquor store to get a Turkish Efes or Danish Tuborg beer, or a bottle of arak named for the ancient Sumerian god of the harvest.

...On learning that I was Jewish, the Kurds I spoke with often mentioned their historic Jewish community, and shared about the Jewish history of Kurdistan. I heard over and over again that Kurdistan had so many Jews, and a sense of lament that they had left....

But what jumped out and shocked me was the support of the Kurds for Israel. I was aware of long-standing support for the Peshmerga (Kurdish fighters) from the Mossad . But I wasn't prepared for the actual sense of reverence that Israel held for the Kurds. Part of the support comes from the classic Middle Eastern dictum, "the enemy of my enemy is my friend" and as such the Kurds and Israel had a bevy of common enemies over the years such as the brutal regime of Saddam Hussein.

Another part of the support seemed to come from a similar identification. The Kurds are a nation divided with parcels of historic Kurdistan attached to Iraq, Turkey, Iran and Syria. They are the largest people in the world without their own state. The notion of being a stateless people, I believe, helped shape the Kurd's affinity and identification with the Jews and Israel. Like the Jews, Kurdish history has been peppered with heartbreak. There is a saying: "the Kurds have no friends but the mountains," a notion that reflects the Kurdish sense of longstanding betrayal and misfortune. Many of them mentioned feeling an affinity to Israel as another beleaguered outpost in the midst of bigger enemies.

Finally, another aspect of the affinity is drawn from the centrality of Iraqi Kurdistan for the rest of Kurdistan. Iraqi Kurdistan has taken on a Zion-like centrality for the rest of Kurdistan and the Kurdish Diaspora. I was sitting one night with a friend in a mountain café, waiting for our food, when one of the servers came to give us plates of salads. My friend Aram said something to him, but couldn't understand his response. Aram said he thought the server was likely a Turkish Kurd. Iraqi Kurdistan, Aram explained, had become a hub for Kurds in the region. He noted that Kurdistan's President Masoud Barzani had spoken of an open-door policy for Kurds of the region, and that many had flocked here for work and to live in freedom. Kani Xulam, the Director of the American-Kurdish Information Network once remarked to me a similar notion of Iraqi Kurdistan's centrality : "Five million Kurds in Iraqi Kurdistan have become a beacon of light for the 35 million Kurds who live in Turkey, Syria, and Iran. That beacon of light is keeping us awake at night and is filling our hearts with hope."

Trying to understand the sentiments better, I asked an Iraqi friend about Kurdish support for Israel. Paradoxically, he said that while the Kurds support Israel, they still saw "Zionism" as a taboo word -- as if Israel and Zionism were separate entities. He mentioned that while Kurds may hold affinity with Israel from a similar sense of isolated status, the term "Zionism" held a connotation of conspiracy that is often rife in the rest of the Middle East. He mentioned that while not everyone differentiates Zionism from Israel from Judaism, and hold some hostility to all three as an inseparable enemy, most Kurds see Israel within a similar beleaguered paradigm and with similar enemies, and harbor sentiments of support.

I briefly discussed Kurdish feelings for Israel in this 2009 post.