Showing posts with label Daphne Anson. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Daphne Anson. Show all posts

Tuesday, April 26, 2016




“There was an indiscriminate massacre by Arabs last night at Tiberias, in which 19 Jews [21 in some sources] were killed, including three women and 10 children, a slaughter unequalled since the Arabs attacked the Jews of Hebron and Safed in 1929,” The Times of London reported on 4 October 1938, quoting its correspondent writing on 3 October.  The attack was premeditated, well-planned, and merciless.

“At 9 p.m. a large band of armed Arabs, after having cut all the telephone wires, made a concerted attack on Tiberias,” the report went on.

“They entered the town in two detachments, one from the north, the other from the south.  Five minutes later, when the invaders were in place, a whistle was heard from the hills above the town and firing began.  It was directed chiefly at the district offices, the police station, and the billets of the British police.  Simultaneously fires broke out in the district offices and the synagogue, and six houses in the Akiva quarter, which lies on the hillside above the Old Town, were entered, set on fire, and the inmates – men, women and children – massacred.  The police turned out immediately, and within 25 minutes were reinforced by the Transjordan Frontier Force, from Samakh, which fought its way past an ambush at a road obstruction near the hot springs to the south of Tiberias.  After the arrival of the troops fighting in the town lasted for two hours before the raiders were driven out.  A curfew was enforced about 11 p.m.  Most of the Jewish casualties occurred in three wooden houses.”
Killed in one of those houses were Joshua and Shoshanah Ben-Arieh and their two little boys.  The couple, with son Arieh, were stabbed and left to burn to death; the other son, Moshe, an eighteen-month-old toddler, was shot dead.  Also stabbed and burned to death at the house were three visiting children: Chaim Leimer aged twelve, his sister Rivka, aged ten, and brother Ezra, aged eight.  Their mother Hanka, aged 37, was badly wounded.

In another of those houses an American citizen, Menachem Kabni (as the American Jewish Outlook, 7 October 1938 names him) – The Times report says merely “Mr Kalpin” – was stabbed and burned to death along with his a female relative; another female relative escaped.  (According to The Times the female survivor was his wife; according to the American Jewish Outlook, his sister.)

And in the third house 26-year-old Rachel Mizrachi was home alone with her five children – her husband Shimon Yochanan Mizrachi was on guard duty elsewhere in Tiberias.  She too was brutally murdered, together with Ezra (aged twelve), Miriam (five), Yocheved (three), Samuel (two) and Hephzibah (one).

Ezekiel Katz (or perhaps Saltz) , aged forty-two, died when the synagogue of which he was gubbai was set ablaze.  Two Jewish constables, Israel Bookman and Zvi Chatzkelovitz, lost their lives, and also killed was Jacob Gross.  Rahamin Halevy and Hanna Sabach were slightly injured.
(See http://myrightword.blogspot.com.au/2015/05/looking-for-kabni.html for other accounts of the victims’ names.)

Next day, 5 October, The Times carried a report of Arab unrest and near anarchy in some parts of Palestine, so much so that it seemed that Britain might have to fight to conquer Palestine all over again.  “Rebel activities from a nuisance have become a threat to orderly government,” it observed.  “Rebel attacks have for months so endangered traffic on the inter-urban roads that Government has had to declare a night curfew on all roads outside the towns and villages…. The telephone and telegraph system has been so frequently sabotaged that communication is uncertain, and even Jerusalem is cut off at times.  The landing of airborne mails at Tiberias has been given up because it is unsafe to carry mails from Galilee to Jerusalem.  Outside the large towns it is almost impossible to collect taxes except as collective fines…. Ordinary police patrolling and crime detection have been given up… The administration of the villages through the mukhtars (headmen) has stopped because the mukhtars obey orders of the [Arab] bands.  The schools may soon reopen, but this means little as the Government schoolmasters are Arab propagandists and are subservient to the Arabs’ wishes… Because issuing arms to the Arab police often means supplying arms to the bands, they have been disarmed in many places, and may soon be entirely dismissed .…”

In a telegram to Malcolm MacDonald, British Secretary of State for the Dominions and Colonies, the Sephardi and Ashkenazi Chief Rabbis of Palestine, Yaakov Meir (who died the following year aged 83) and Yitzhak Herzog, declared: “Palestine Jewry is deeply horrified at the Tiberias massacre and sacrilege.   In God’s name, we appeal to you to end the terror.” [http://www.jta.org/1938/10/04/archive/21-jews-slain-in-tiberias-massacre-worst-since-29-synagogue-homes-razed]

The following month, on 24 November in the House of Commons, MacDonald made a speech which foreshadowed his White Paper of 1939, predicated on a fear of a full scale Arab rebellion necessitating huge British military commitments in Palestine at a time of impending war in Europe, and which, in attempting to appease the Arabs, was seen by Jewish and non-Jewish Zionists as a betrayal.

In that speech (The Times, 25 November 1938) MacDonald maintained, inter alia:

“No one could justly say that Great Britain had not been fulfilling her obligation to facilitate the migration of Jews to Palestine.  Since 1922 more than 250,000 Jews had entered Palestine and settled there.… The Jews were in Palestine not on sufferance but by right and today, under the lash of persecution in Europe, their eagerness to return to their own homeland was multiplied an hundredfold.  The tragedy of a people who had no country had never been so deep as it was this week…. But he had hoped that we were not going to allow our horror at the plight into which these people had been thrown to warp our cool and just judgment on the difficult problem of Palestine today…. When we promised to facilitate the establishment of a national home for the Jews in Palestine we never anticipated this fierce persecution in Europe….”

You may correctly anticipate the rest.

“In 1933 30,000 Jews came into Palestine; in 1934 42, 000; and in 1935 … 61,000….  If he were an Arab he would be alarmed…. The House of Commons … ought to recognise that many in the Palestinian Arab movement were motivated by a genuine patriotism…. [T]hey were thinking … of their freedom, and they were afraid that if this process went on at last they would have to surrender to the political overlordship of the enterprising, hard-working, ever-increasing citizens of the Jewish national home.  We, the British people, should be the last people in the world not to understand the feelings of the Arabs in this matter because we, too, would sacrifice our material advantages if we thought that our freedom was at stake.”  (What he meant by “freedom” for the Arabs seems puzzling, since Mandate Palestine was in effect a British colony and since the Arabs were ruled by clan heads and had little concept of freedom in the western sense.)

Nevertheless, MacDonald, aware that “a great many people regarded this agitation as the mere protest of a gang of bandits,” conceded that “many Arabs who had taken part most eagerly in the troubles were cutthroats of the worst type.  Their massacre of the innocents at Tiberias, and on a score of other miserable battlefields, had disgraced their cause.  It was true also that many of those who were associated with them had been terrorized into that association.”


Moreover, when the Balfour Declaration was promulgated “there were already living between the Jordan and the Mediterranean Sea more than 600,000 Arabs…. The Jews brought with them money, and development work provided extra means of livelihood.  Modern health services, which were extended not only to Jews but to Arabs, gave the individual a further lease and security of life.  Since 1922 the Arab population in Palestine had, scarcely at all by migration from outside and almost entirely by natural increase, gone up from something over 600,000 to 990,000 persons.  It was calculated that the total of 990,000 Arabs in Palestine today would have become 1,500,000 within 20 years…. The Arabs could not say that the Jews were driving them out of the country.  If not a single Jew had gone into Palestine after 1918 he believed that the Arab population in Palestine today would still have been about 600,000.  It was not only the Jews who had benefitted from the Balfour Declaration.  They could deny it as much as they like, but, materially, the Arabs had gained very greatly from the Balfour Declaration.  It was useless to present that argument to most Arabs.  They were dead to the argument; they were blind to the spectacle of a gradually improving spectacle of life for their people…”



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Tuesday, April 19, 2016




Here’s the curious case of one of them.
Born to non-Jewish parents in 1929, Lynne Reid Banks is a prominent British novelist, best-known for The L-Shaped Room (1960) which was made into a movie. Among her works are children’s novels set in Israel, where she worked on a kibbutz, and where she married an Anglo-Jewish sculptor, Chaim Stephenson, and had three sons. She became an Israeli citizen after the Six Day War, but in 1971, after nine years in Israel, she resettled in Britain with her family. There, she stoutly defended Israel from obloquy; few more passionate expositors of the Israeli cause existed than she. I well remember the stirring speech that she made at a pro-Israel rally one brisk and overcast Sunday in Trafalgar Square to express solidarity with the valiant little Jewish State during the Yom Kippur War and to protest the Heath government’s odious refusal to supply Israel with spare parts for its British-made tanks.
Around that time, The Times (18 October 1973) published a letter by the eminent writer Dame Freya Stark, noted as an explorer and traveller, and then living in Italy; the letter observed that during the 1940, when Britain fought against Nazi Germany,
“The Egyptians did not then stand by us for territory nor for oil, but for an idea of freedom which we shared. They are fighting now not only for their Arab civilization, but for honour and respect and to prove that they can die. We too have fought against the odds, and may, in the memory of our old friendship, salute them.”
This letter drew an immediate riposte from Lynne Reid Banks, bristling with emotion and indignation, published in The Times on 20 October:
…. I cannot any longer tolerate the tone of letters like Freya Stark’s …
How can she sit there fanning herself on some Italian balcony … talking incomprehensibly about the fight for Arab civilization … what civilization? The one in which adulterers are to be whipped in the streets, in which there are public hangings, in some parts of which slaves are to be kept? Is this to be mentioned while the sons of Jews, who have contributed more to true civilization in every field than any other single group on earth, are being blown to pieces fighting against fantastic odds for a tiny corner of the world to call their own?
Let me remind Freya Stark and her ilk that the debt we owe to the Arabs for their invaluable contribution to our side in the last war – the Grand Mufti’s and the Syrian’s [sic] well-known Nazi sympathies take the edge off this, of course – is nothing to the debt that we owe to the Jews, not only for their ubiquitous contribution to the war effort, but for what we stood by and allowed them to suffer in Europe. Nor are the Arabs now fighting for their civilization, such as it is, but for their “honour”, currently represented by a large area of desert which, when they had it, they only used to site missiles in, and one war-torn strip of moonlike high ground which for 20 years was used solely to lob shells onto farm settlements below.
…. They are hundreds of millions of people. Israel is three million. They are rolling in admittedly unequally distributed money: Israel survives back-breaking taxes, sweat and charity. They possess thousands upon thousands of square miles of territory, not a fraction of which they know what to do with; Israel has, and is holding on to with her teeth, a sliver of land the size of Wales, which even the Foreign Office’s most rabid Arabist cannot claim the Jews have not earned, deserved and done well by. Apart from that sliver, there are “buffer areas”, bravely fought for and as we now see, absolutely essential for Israel’s survival. It is these two God-forsaken lumps of land that the Arabs are now saving their faces by fighting for. Could really civilized people think this worth what it is costing?
I won’t deny that one can see some right and justification on the Arab side, if one is able to preserve a total detachment. But in the present desperate situation, it is beyond me how any person, or any government, can do this. Young Jewish men, raised up in a country that I so deeply love, with such expectations, such shining promise, such an inbuilt probability of contributing to progress and sound thinking and enlightenment, are dying at this moment. I have lived with them, loved them, and taught them [English], and their deaths in this wicked, senseless struggle tear me apart. Let Freya Stark and [anti-Israel Labour MP Christopher] Mayhew and all of them weep for the Arab equivalent, if they can find them. Meanwhile, how can any outsider with any grasp of essentials fail to support Israel? How can the [Heath] Government fail to support it?’
On 23 November 1974 – ten days after the villainous Arafat’s “gun or olive branch” speech to the UN General Assembly, The Times carried a letter from Ms Reid Banks in which she fumed:
“I have been watching your correspondence columns closely, but have not seen a single letter objecting to the appearance before the Assembly of the United Nations of an avowed and flagrant terrorist without a country to represent. I find it very hard to believe you received no such letters, easier to wonder if The Times elected not to publish them.
By the same token I waited until today (November 21) for some mention of the news about UNESCO’s cultural committee calling for sanctions against Israel (for archaeological excavations in her own capital on which completely satisfactory reports have been submitted to the committee by independent experts), or for the reaction this instantly called forth from a group of French intellectuals. Simone de Beauvoir, Jean Paul Sartre and others publicly said they would dissociate themselves from all UNESCO activities unless Israel were reinstated. Was this not hard news? Yet it did not appear, not in your paper and not in others either.
These and other strange omissions have caused me to make some high level inquiries. We all know Fleet Street is in a bad way economically. Could it be that Arab government press offices might not be so willing to pay hugely for supplements and full-page advertisements if editorial matter appeared which was unfavourable to Israel? This is strongly bruited.”
Almost a year later, in a letter to The Times (14 October 1976) Ms Reid Banks joined Oxford scholar Dr Harry [Harold] Shukman and pro-Israel writer Alan Sillitoe in condemning the UN’s “present victimization of one member nation”.
And yet, nowadays, Ms Reid Banks is herself participating in that victimisation. She has lurched from the pro-Israel to the anti-Israel camp, in the most inexplicable and regrettable way.
Perhaps the writing on the wall could be read between the lines in her letter of 20 October 1973 quoted above, in her reference to “some right and justification on the Arab side, if one is able to preserve total detachment”. Yet, Israel is as heroic as ever it was, a beacon of enlightenment in a region of darkness, and its imperilment as dire as ever it was, given Iran’s nuclear ambitions.
When did Lynne Reid Banks’s lurch begin? When did she start to cross the Rubicon? “Parallel Lines,” her article in The Times of 26 February 1994 concerning her decision to visit to Jordan provides a clue:
…. There was one special thing I wanted to do, and as my trip proceeded, this goal came to seem not just the quixotic whim it had appeared, even to me, at first, but an important part in the peace process. I always said and believed that nothing will come good until we can make the imaginative leap into our opponent’s point of view.
Brian Keenan, early on in An Evil Cradling, his account of his four years as a hostage in Lebanon, wrote the words that had set me off on this quest: “There are those who ‘cross the Jordan’ and seek out truth through a different experience from the one they are born to, and theirs is the greatest struggle…. Unless we know how to embrace ‘the other’, we are not men, and our nationhood is wilful and adolescent. Those who struggle through the turbulent Jordan waters have gone beyond the glib definitions of politics or religion. The rest remain standing on either bank, firing guns at one another.”
Now, with peace at last seriously on the Middle East agenda, this need of mine, to put myself into the enemy’s eye-sockets, if not into his heart and passions, seemed no less compelling but more….
And so these days Lynne Reid Bank’s name can be found appended to full-page advertisements in London newspapers denouncing Israel.
Note this. in an interview she gave to The Times (published 13 August 1984) she explained that she had not become a Jew. “I regard the idea of converting to Judaism as a complete nonsense,” she stated. “You can sympathize with, be part of and learn about, but you cannot ever be Jewish – it is just not possible.” She added: “I think I’m more use to them as an unrepentant Gentile.”
Yet what does this “unrepentant Gentile” do now that she’s joined the ranks of the Israel-bashers? Why, she signs full page ads containing such statements as
“We, the undersigned Jews in Britain, affirm our opposition to the continuing occupation, call upon the British Government to use its influence in Washington and the Middle East to bring the occupation to a rapid end (Independent Jewish Voices, “A Time to Speak Out – Now!”, The Times, 19 November 2008);
“We, Jews who insist on the humanity of all, regardless of race and creed …” (Jews for Justice for Palestinians, “Stop the Slaughter!” full page ad., The Times, 14 January 2009)
And, in The Times of 1 December 2009, her name appeared beneath a full-page “Open Letter to [then Prime Minister] Gordon Brown(by members of Independent Jewish Voices, Jews for Justice for Palestinians, Jewish Writers Against the Occupation, Jewish Socialist Group, and Jewish Writers Against the Occupation ) excoriating Israel and supporting the Goldstone Report.
The woman who once railed so justifiably against UNESCO’s victimisation of the Jewish State also signed the noxious statement headed “Our cultural boycott of Israel starts now” that appeared in The Guardian on 13 February 2015: [https://artistsforpalestine.org.uk/2015/02/13/guardian-our-cultural-boycott-of-israel-starts-now/] and which announced so egotistically:
Along with more than 600 other fellow artists, we are announcing today that we will not engage in business-as-usual cultural relations with Israel. We will accept neither professional invitations to Israel, nor funding, from any institutions linked to its government. Since the summer war on Gaza, Palestinians have enjoyed no respite from Israel’s unrelenting attack on their land, their livelihood, their right to political existence. “2014,” says the Israeli human rights organisation B’Tselem, was “one of the cruellest and deadliest in the history of the occupation.” The Palestinian catastrophe goes on. Israel’s wars are fought on the cultural front too. Its army targets Palestinian cultural institutions for attack, and prevents the free movement of cultural workers. Its own theatre companies perform to settler audiences on the West Bank – and those same companies tour the globe as cultural diplomats, in support of “Brand Israel”. During South African apartheid, musicians announced they weren’t going to “play Sun City”. Now we are saying, in Tel Aviv, Netanya, Ashkelon or Ariel, we won’t play music, accept awards, attend exhibitions, festivals or conferences, run masterclasses or workshops, until Israel respects international law and ends its colonial oppression of the Palestinians.
When I told a friend that I was writing this Elder post on the subject of Ms Reid Banks’s lurch from an arch-champion of Israel into a foe, my friend, noting her advanced aged, suggested “Perhaps she’s gone senile”. I am not so sure. Still, I find that that explanation for her volte-face has also occurred to others, such as this exchange by commenters regarding the above announcement [https://disqus.com/home/discussion/harrysplace/british_artists_respond/]:
Commenter One:
I have to admit I was quite shocked and upset to see Lynne Reid Banks on the list. I read "The L-Shaped Room" in 1978 while travelling in Europe and Israel and enjoyed it immensely. She was very familiar with Israel, lived there on kibbutz for 8 years and it showed in her work. She's quite old now so perhaps senility has set in. It's one thing for an artist who clearly identified with Israel's left to be critical of a right-wing government, but quite another to sign on to a cultural boycott. I am sad and disgusted, and find myself hoping it's dementia, which is sad in itself.
Commenter Two:
Without being able to go into specifics, I know something of Lynne Reid Banks' behaviour in respect of obligations to her Jewish family connections which show her in a less than wonderful and egocentric light. I'm not in the least surprised by her being on this list. She severed her connections with Israel long ago. The Israel she was interested in is a fantasy of kibbutz life that might have been credible in 1962 but is long past.
Commenter One (again)
By her action signing this petition, I wouldn't question anything you've written. What a dreadful "journey" (god how I hate that word) she's been on since then.
Commenter Three
That was my reaction too. Hers was the only name that took me aback.



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Tuesday, April 12, 2016




John Lloyd Stephens (1805-52) was an American explorer, writer, and diplomat. He travelled in the Middle East during 1834-36. In this extract from volume two of the third edition his Incidents of Travel in Egypt, Arabia, Petraea and the Holy Land, published in 1839, we encounter a very moving tale of his literally overnight bonding with the Jews of Hebron and of a moving incident concerning Hebron’s octogenarian chief rabbi, who I believe was Ḥayyim ha-Levi Polacco. I’ve also included brief snippets from the author’s impressions of Jerusalem, which he visited next.

Wrote Stephens:
The Bedouins and Fellahs about Hebron are regarded as the worst, most turbulent, and desperate Arabs under the government of the pacha [sic; Pasha].… We turned a point pf the mountain to the left; and at the extreme end of the valley, on the side of a hill, bounding it, stands the little city of Hebron, the ancient capital of the kingdom of David. But it bears no traces of the glory of its Jewish king…. [A] small town of white houses, compactly built on the side of the mountain, a mosque and two minarets, are all that mark the ancient city of Hebron.
…. I had no wish to stop at Hebron, though the first city in the Holy Land … The glory of the house of David had for ever departed. ,,, I had an indefinable longing to sleep my first night in the Holy land in [Bethlehem]. But the governor positively refused to let me go that afternoon; he said that it was a bad road, and that a Jew had been robbed a few days before on his way to Bethlehem… Seeing there was no hope for me, I made the best of it, and asked him to furnish me with a place to lodge that night….
… I followed the janizary [sic; janissary] … I had no idea where he was taking me; but … their peculiar costume and physiognomies told me I was among the unhappy remnant of a fallen people, the persecuted and despised Israelites. They were removed from the Turkish quarter, as if the slightest contact with this once-favoured people would contaminate the bigoted follower of the Prophet. The governor, in the haughty spirit of a Turk, probably thought that the house of a Jew was a fit place of repose for a Christian; and, following the janizary through a low range of narrow, dark, and filthy lanes, mountings and turnings, of which it is impossible to give any idea, with the whole Jewish population turning out to review us … I was conducted to the house of the chief Rabbi of Hebron.
If I had had my choice, these were the very persons I would have selected for my first acquaintances in the Holy Land. The descendants of Israel were fit persons to welcome a stranger to the ancient city of their fathers; and if they had been then sitting under the shadow of the throne of David, they could not have given me a warmer reception. It may be that, standing in the same relation to the Turks, alike the victims of persecution and contempt, they … felt only a sympathy for the object of mutual oppression. But, whatever the cause, I shall never forget the kindness with which, as a stranger and a Christian, I was received by the Jews in the capital of their ancient kingdom …
[My own friends] would have smiled to see me that night, with a Syrian dress and long beard, sitting cross-legged on a divan, with the chief rabbi of the Jews at Hebron, and half the synagogue around us, talking of Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob as of old and mutual friends.
With the few moments of daylight that remained, my Jewish friends conducted me around their miserable quarter. They … took me to their synagogue, in which an old white-bearded Israelite was teaching some prattling children to read the laws of Moses in the language of their fathers; and when the sun was setting in the west, and the Muezzin from the top of the minaret was calling the sons of the faithful to evening prayers, the old rabbi and myself, a Jew and a Christian, were sitting on the roof of the little synagogue, looking out as if by stealth upon the sacred mosque containing the hallowed ashes of their patriarch fathers. The Turk guards the door, and the Jew and the Christian are not permitted to enter; and the old rabbi was pointing to the different parts of the mosque, where, as he told me, under tombs adorned with carpets of silk and gold, rested the mortal remains of Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob.
…. Hebron, one of the oldest cities of Canaan, is now a small Arab town, containing seven or eight hundred Arab families. The present inhabitants are the wildest, most lawless, and most desperate people in the Holy land …. A petty Turk now wields the sceptre of the son of Jesse, and a small remnant of a despised and persecuted people still hover round the graves of their fathers; and though degraded and trampled underfoot, from the very dust in which they lie are still looking to the restoration of their temporal kingdom.
Accompanied by my Jewish friends, I visited the few spots which tradition marks as connected with the scenes of Biblical History. Passing through the bazars at the extreme end, and descending a few steps, we entered a vault containing a large monument, intended in memory of Abner, the greatest captain of his age, the favoured and for a long time trusted officer of David, who, as the Jews told me, was killed in battle near Hebron, and his body brought here and buried. The great mosque, the walls of which, the Jews say, are built with the ruins of the temple of Solomon, according to the belief of the Mussulmans and the better authority of the Jews, covers the site of the Cave of Machpelah, which Abraham bought from Ephron the Hittite; and within its sacred precincts are the supposed tombs of Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob.
The doors were guarded with jealous care by the bigoted Mussulmans; and when, with my Jewish companion, I stopped for a moment to look up at the long marble staircase leading to the tomb of Abraham, a Turk came out from the bazars, and, with furious gesticulations, gathered a crowd around us; and a Jew and a Christian were driven with contempt from the sepulchre of the patriarch whom they both revered. A special firman from the pacha, or perhaps a large bribe to the governor, might have procured me a private admission; but death or the Koran would have been the penalty required by the bigoted people of Hebron.
On a rising ground a little beyond the mosque is a large fountain or reservoir, supported by marble pillars, where my companion told me that Sarah had washed the clothes of Abraham and Isaac. Leaving this, I went once more to the two pools outside the walls, and after examining them as the so-called works of Solomon, I had seen all a stranger could see in Hebron.
…. I had spent a long evening with my Jewish friends. The old rabbi talked to me of their prospects and condition, and how he had left his country in Europe many years before, and come with his wife and children to lay their bones in the Holy Land. He was now eighty years old; and for thirty years, he said, he had lived with the sword suspended over his head; had been reviled, buffeted, and spit upon; and though sometimes enjoying a respite from persecution; he never knew at what moment the bloodhounds might not be let loose upon him; that since the country had been wrested from the sultan by the Pasha of Egypt, they had been comparatively safe and tranquil; though some idea may be formed of this comparative security from the fact that during the revolution two years before, when Ibrahim Pacha, after having been pent up several months in Jerusalem, burst out like a roaring lion, the first place upon which his wrath descended was the unhappy Hebron; and … the unhappy Jews, never offending but always suffering, received the full weight of Arab vengeance. Their houses were ransacked and plundered; their gold and silver, and all things valuable, carried away; and their wives and daughters violated before their eyes by a brutal soldiery.
…. He told me that he had lately had occasion to regret exceedingly the loss of a paper, which would now be of great use to him; that he was a Jew of Venice (I can vouch for it that he was no Shylock), and thirty years before had left his native city and come to Hebron with a regular passport; that for many years a European passport was no protection, and, indeed, it had been rather an object with him to … identify himself with the Asiatics; that in consequence he had been careless with his passport, and had lost it; but that now, since the conquest by Mohammed Aly and the government of Ibrahim Pacha, a European passport was respected, and saved its holder and his family from Turkish impositions. He mourned bitterly over his loss … for his children and grandchildren, whom his carelessness had deprived of the evidence of their birthright and the protection of their country.
I was interested in the old man’s story … and drawing upon … my legal knowledge, I told him that the loss of his passport had not deprived him of his right to the protection of his country, and that. If he could establish the fact of his being a native of Venice, he might still sit down under the wings of the double-headed eagle of Austria… Learning tjhat there were in Hebron some of his very old acquaintances, who could testify to the fact of his nativity, I told him to bring them to me; and I would take my affadavits, and, on my arrival at Beyroot, would represent the matter to the Austrian consul there; and I thought that with such evidence the consul would not refuse him another passport.
He thanked me very warmly, and the next morning early, while I was waiting for my departure, he brought in his witnesses…. I swore the white-bearded old men upon … a Hebrew copy of the Old Testament. I then dictated an affidavit for the rabbi himself, and was about administering the oath as before, when the old man rose, and taking the paper in his hand, and telling me to follow him, led the way through a range of narrow lanes and streets, and a crowd of people, to the little synagogue, where, opening the holy of holies, and laying his hand upon the sacred scroll, he read over the affidavit and solemnly swore to its truth. It did not need this additional act of solemnity to convince me of his truth; and when he gave me back the paper, and I saw the earnestness and deep interest depicted in the faces of the crowd that had followed us, I again resolved that I would use my best exertions to gladden once more the old man’s heart before he died. I added to the several affidavits a brief statement of the circumstances under which they had been taken, and, putting the paper in my pocket, returned to the house of the rabbi; and [subsequently] … at Beyroot I called upon the Austrian consul, and before I left had the satisfaction of receiving from him the assurance that the passport would be made out forthwith, and delivered to the agent whom the old rabbi had named to me.
I had nothing now to detain me in Hebron; my mules and a kervash provided by the governor were waiting for me, and I bade farewell to my Jewish friends…. I passed through the dark and narrow lanes of the Jewish Quarter, the inhabitants being all arranged before their houses; and all along, even from the lips of maidens, a farewell salutation fell upon my ears…. With the last of their kind greetings still lingering in my ears, I emerged from the Jewish Quarter, and it was with a warm feeling of thankfulness I felt, that if yesterday I had an Arab’s curse, today I had a Jewish blessing.
…. [A] few days after my arrival, the chief rabbi of Jerusalem, the high priest of the Jews in the city of their ancient kings, called upon me, accompanied by a Gibraltar Jew who spoke English, and told me that they had come at the request of my friend in Hebron, to receive and welcome me in the city of their fathers. I had already seen a great deal of the Jews. I had seen them in the cities of Italy, everywhere more or less oppressed; at Rome, shut up at night in their miserable quarters as if they were noxious beasts; in Turkey, persecuted and oppressed; along the shores of the Black Sea and in the heart of Russia, looked down upon by the serfs of the great empire of vassalage; and, for the climax of misery, I had seen them contemned [sic] and spit upon even by the ignorant and enslaved boors of Poland. I had seen them scattered abroad among all nations, as it had been foretold they would be, everywhere a separate and peculiar people, and everywhere, under all poverty, wretchedness, and oppression, waiting for, and anxiously expecting, the coming of a Messiah, to call together their scattered tribes, and restore them to the kingdom of their fathers; and all this the better fitted me for the more challenging spectacle of the Jews in the holy city. In all changes and revolutions, from the days when the kingdom of Solomon passed into the hands of strangers, under the Assyrian, the Roman, the Arab, and the Turk, a remnant of that once-favoured people has always hovered around the holy city; and now, as in the days of David, old men may be seen at the foot of Mount Zion, teaching their children to read from that mysterious book on which they have ever fondly built their hopes of a temporal and eternal kingdom.
The friends made for me by the rabbi at Hebron were the very friends above all others whom I would have selected for myself. … [O]ne of the first offers of kindness they made me, was an invitation to wait and partake of [Pesach/Passover] with them. The rabbi was an old man, nearly seventy, with a long white beard, and Aaron himself would not have been ashamed of such a representative. …
The Jews are the best topographers in Jerusalem … That same morning they took me to what they call a part of the wall of Solomon’s temple. It forms part of the southern wall of the mosque of Omar, and is evidently older than the rest, the stones being much larger, measuring nine or ten feet long; and I saw that day, as other travellers may still see every Friday in the year, all the Jews in Jerusalem clothed in their best raiment, winding through the narrow streets of their quarter; and under the hallowed wall, with the sacred volume in their hands, singing, in the language in which they were written, the Songs of Solomon and the Psalms of David. White-bearded old men and smooth-cheeked boys were leaning over the same book; and Jewish maidens, in their long white robes, were standing with their faces against the wall, and praying through cracks and crevices….[A]nd now, as the Mussulman lords it over the place where the temple stood, and the Jews are not permitted to enter, they endeavour to insinuate their prayers through the crevices in the wall, that thus they may rise from the Throne of Grace. The tradition is consistent, and serves to illustrate the consistency with which the Israelites adhere to the externals of their faith.
…. At about nine o’clock the next morning I was with [the Gibraltar Jew, the richest Israelite in Jerusalem”], and in a few moments we were sitting in the highest seats in the synagogue, at the foot of Mount Zion. My old friend the rabbi was in the desk, reading to a small remnant to the Israelites the same law which had been read to their fathers on the same spot ever since their fathers came out of the land of Egypt. And there they sat, where their fathers had sat before them … the feeble remnant of a mighty people; there was sternness in their faces, but in their hearts a spirit of patient endurance, and a firm and settled resolution to die and be buried under the shadow of their fallen temple.
…. [As] I could not understand the words of exhortation which fell from the lips of the preacher it was not altogether unnatural that I should turn from the rough-bearded sons of Abraham to the smooth faces of their wives and daughters. Since I left Europe, I had not been in an apartment where the women sat with their faces uncovered; and … I saw many a dark-eyed Jewess who appeared well worthy of my gaze…
The service over, we stopped for a moment to look at the synagogue, which was a new building, with nothing about it that was peculiar or interesting. It had no gold or silver ornaments; and the sacred scroll, the table of the Law, contained in the holy of holies, was all that the pride of the Jew could show. My friend, however, did not put his own light under a bushel; for, telling me the amount he had himself contributed to the building, he conducted me on to a room bought at his own expense in the schoolroom, with a stone in the front wall recording his name and generosity.
We then returned to his home [for dinner]… He was a man about fifty-five, born in Gibraltar to the same abject poverty which is the lot of most of his nation. In his youth he had been fortunate in his little dealings, and had been … an enterprising man; for he had twice made a voyage to England, and was so successful and liked the country so much that he always called himself an Englishman. Having … become very rich, he gratified the darling wish of his heart by coming to Jerusalem, to die and be buried with his fathers in the Valley of Jehoshaphat. But this holy purpose did not make him undervalue the importance of life, and the advantages of being a great man now….
It was Saturday, the Jewish Sabbath. The command to do no work on the Sabbath day … at first gave me some uneasiness about my dinner; but my host, with great self-complacency, relieved me from all apprehensions, by describing the admirable contrivance he had invented for reconciling appetite and duty – an oven, heated the night before to such a degree that the process of cooking was continued during the night, and the dishes were ready when wanted the next day…
…. I set out for Jaffa, the ancient Joppa…. About three hours from Jerusalem we came to the village of Abougos, the chief of the most powerful families of Fellahs in the Holy Land. Nearly all his life he had been in arms against the government, and his name was known among all the Christians in the East as the robber of the pilgrims to the Holy Sepulchre….

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